“The Times They Are A-Changin´”

“…The line it is drawn, the curse it is cast The slow one now will later be fast As the present now will later be past The order is rapidly fadin‘ And the first one now will later be last For the times they are a-changin‘” (Bob Dylan, “The Times They Are A-Changin´”, 1964) One […]

Ambositra

Even if Ambositra (pronounced ambooshtre) might be no more than a halt in between for most Madagascar travellers, it´s definitely worth giving it a second glance. Ambositra is a small town halfway between Antsirabe and Fianarantsoa on the RN7 from Tana down south, and it got charms set in the middle of central Madagascan highland […]

Antsirabe

It happens quite often that one has to stopover at Antsirabe – the town “with a lot of salt” – if travelling southern, south-eastern or western Madagascar. Just 150 kilometres south of Antananarivo in the central highland, Antsirabe is not only statistically the coldest place on the island, but also an industrial and agricultural centre […]

Les Chutes de la Lily

In Ampefy, it is Sakay river that drains Lake Itasy before taking a turn to the south 50 kilometres west of the town. Then, it converges with another river and flows into the Mahajil coming from the highland, where it was named Kitsamby. On its way west to the Channel of Mozambique, Mahajil river passes […]

My heart is in the highland

The central highlands are Madagascar’s backbone, stretching along the eastern part of the island from the Massif du Tsaratanana – south of Ambilobe – all the way down south to the Andringitra Massif west of Manakara. In the southeast it is linked to the Massiv d´Antaivondro, a mountain range almost reaching Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) at […]

Antananarivo – Tana par plaisir

Antananarivo, Madagascar´s capital with two to three million citizens who just call it Tana, has been marked as the world´s third most polluted city just behind leading Baku/Azerbaijan and Dhaka/Bangladesh in a Forbes-ranking in 2008. But there must have been some improvements ever since then. When it comes to air pollution I´ve seen worse in […]

Cruising mighty Oogué – Bootsfahrt auf dem Oogué

The largest, longest and most important river of Gabon is the Oogué. Oogué River flows between its source in the Republic of Congo (Congo-Brazzaville) and the estuary north and south of Port Gentil 1.200 km away, fed by many tributaries of which Ngounié River is the most important. Ngounié River runs parallel to the coastline […]

Harar

The legendary city of Harar is in Ethiopia´s east only a few kilometres from the border to Somaliland at 1.850 m at the outermost point of the Ahmar mountain range. Famous for its UNESCO World Heritage old town enclosed by a defence wall, modern-day Harar has around 200.000 inhabitants and is quite a typical African […]

Meet the Dorze – Zu Gast bei den Dorze

The Dorze live up in the Guge mountains north of Arba Minch, and they belong to the so called “Museum of tribes” in southern Ethiopia, ancient ethnic groups living just like their forefathers. Long ago, the Dorze had been a tribe of hunters and warriors, but when the regions big game disappeared, the people had […]

Gambella

The city of Gambella as well as the eponymous region are oddities in Ethiopia, lacking the significant features of the rest of the country, especially the highland culture. The region is more linked to South Sudan because of the nearby border. The city has been established by Britain in 1907 as a port at Baro […]